servo extensions for the wing servos only.
The huge ailerons have counterbalances
on them, wing fillets are molded into the
fuselage, and a pilot bust is included, all
of which add to the realism of this model.
There is even a mock gun and antenna,
which look sweet. Since the gun fits so
tight in the wing and the antenna threads
into the fuselage, removing them for transport is quick and simple. A note about the
cockpit assembly: the manual states to use
CA to adhere the instrument panel and I
found out the hard way that this can possibly lead to fogging of the canopy glass.
I think canopy glue should be used and
some painter’s tape will hold things while
the glue dries. (Replacement parts are available should you encounter any issues.) A
plastic spinner is included and I needed to
relieve some of it with a drill bit and my
;e other end of the control rod shows a foolproof
connection setup. ;e tailwheel does its job well and
you can see some of the printed covering detail along
with the elevator strut attachment point.
Here is the included pilot bust. His favorite Aresti
schedule is up and his helmet is painted with great
detail.
knife to accommodate the prop adapter
and prop I used. Speaking of which, if
you use the same motor as I did, get the
longer prop adapter for the Power 60 from
horizonhobby.com and the prop/spinner
ensemble will go together perfectly.
Conclusion
I would say going electric vs. glow is a
give and take. For me, removing the wing
is necessary for transport so accessing the
battery isn’t all that bad. Also with a brushless motor bolted on the nose, my plane
stays clean, the cowl cuts were minimal
and the instant throttle response is outstanding. The time to build the Zlín either
way should be about 10-20 hours, depending on your pace. I encountered no surprises and found the plane to be a good
build. ;
Here is the Zlín safely back home on terra firma. I could go on about this airplane’s gorgeous lines. ;e details in the printed covering are sweet and everything flows so well. Can you say “keeper”?
Going the Distance
When you’re faced with mounting
your powerplant on the nose
of your model airplane, it can
be daunting to figure out how
to properly position everything.
Here are a few tips to help you
get the proper distance from the
firewall to your prop washer:
Wood is good: I’m a woodworker
by trade and always welcome the
processes of building/rebuilding/
modifying with wood. In this case,
a box-type structure is extremely
stout and easy to make, but watch
how much weight you add when
using this method. When weight
is a concern, try making your own
wooden stando;s. Cut hardwood
blocks to size and drill holes in the
centers of the blocks. Epoxy them to
your firewall and add your blind nuts,
some thread-lock and you’re done.
Stand-o;sh: As I mentioned above,
making your own is only one
option. Just know that a myriad of
techniques have been thought out
and are at your disposal. Aluminum,
nylon, carbon fiber and steel all have
been made into spacers that will
allow you to arrive at the correct
dimension when mounting your
engine or motor. (I found the nylon
ones used on the Zlín at the local
home improvement store.) As a
precaution I add fender washers
between the spacer and firewall
to help prevent any wood from
becoming crushed.
Measure twice the easy way: After I
have mocked up my motor or engine
with the prop washer in place, I use a
compact disc placed on the shaft to
act as a measuring point. ;is makes
getting an accurate measurement
from the firewall so much easier; your
days of holding two rulers or gauging
and guesstimating are over!
Definitely be aware of your model’s
size and its powerplant needs
for mounting your motor safely.
Obviously a 200-watt and a 2000-
watt system will have two entirely
di;erent structural requirements,
just as a .46-size glow engine and a
200cc gasser will. So, build it light,
build it right, and we’ll see you at the
flying field!
