When it comes time to finish and paint my model’s control surfaces, I use a
wooden Popsicle stick inserted into one of the hinge slots so that I can hold
the surface while I spray-paint it. ;is keeps my hands a lot cleaner, and if you
use a stick in each hinge slot, you protect the inner surface from the paint; that
way, you get a more secure bond when you glue your hinges into place.
Sal Calvagna, Holbrook, NY
USEFUL HINTS FROM MODELERS | Illustrations by Richard ;ompson
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I learned a long time ago that if your model noses over during a
dead-stick landing, the fuel pick-up clunk inside the gas tank could
be forced to the front of the tank. ;is leads to another dead-stick
flight when you climb out during the next takeo;, as the engine
is starved of fuel during the nose-up climb. I solder a length of
1/8-inch brass tube to the clunk and then attach it to the tank
outlet tube with a short piece of flexible tubing. ;is setup allows
the clunk to move freely while preventing it from being forced to the
front of the tank. ;is simple fix works great.
Jim Newman, South Lafayette, IN
After flying giant-scale airplanes for years, I have started to use
cable ties to secure connections to both T-fittings and inline filters
installed in Tygon fuel tubing. I also use cable ties to secure the
T-fittings that lead to my fuel dot to a sturdy anchor, such as the
engine stando;s. ;is takes stress o; the fitting and prevents the
fuel lines from chafing on sharp edges while the airplane is in flight.
Chris Murphy, Gainesville, FL SECURE SERVOS
With large and giant-scale airplanes in which the aileron servos are
secured under flush-fitting hatches, I replace the typical 3/8-inch-square
spruce mounting rails with thicker and wider support blocks. If there’s
enough room, I double the width to 3/4 inch and make them about
1/2 inch wide. Plus, I use thin light plywood to add reinforcement gussets
to secure the rails. I also use 15-minute epoxy instead of CA glue for a
sturdy glue bond.
Craig Williams, Pittsburgh, PA